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Savremeni aspekti primene prirodnih bojila u okviru multidisciplinarnog projekta "Sve boje Crne Gore - bojenje vune biljnim bojama"
Contemporary aspects of the application of natural dyes in the multidisciplinary project "All the colors of Montenegro - dyeing wool with vegetable dyes"
aMontenegrin Wool Institute, Nikšić, Montenegro bUniversity of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology, Zagreb, Croatia
email: sofsofjelena@gmail.com, sofijadjukanovic01@gmail.com, ana.sutlovic@ttf.unigz.hr, martina.glogar@ttf.unigz.hr, iva.brlek@ttf.unigz.hr, ivana.corak@ttf.unigz.hr
Abstract
Multidisciplinarni projekat "Sve boje Crne Gore - bojenje vune biljnim bojama" povezuje nauku, tradiciju i umetnost i doprinosi očuvanju i oživljavanju nematerijalne tekstilne kulturne baštine, kao i korišćenje vune u drugim područjima kao što su poljoprivreda, građevinarstvo itd. Prihvatanjem ideje projekta može se dati važan doprinos smanjenju zagađenja životne sredine i ostvarivanju principa održivog razvoja u privredi, jer vuna koja se odlaže u prirodi predstavlja ekološki problem. U procesima bojenja insistira se na korištenju autohtonog otpada ili lako obnovljivih biljnih izvora. Za bojenje se mogu koristiti različite biljke: koren broća, listovi crnog jasena, ljuske luka, lišće oraha i dr. U sklopu projekta organizuju se radionice bojenja tekstila i tradicionalne tehnike oblikovanja tekstila, kao što je filcanje vune, za studente različitih disciplina, a održavaju se i interdisciplinarna predavanja iz područja etnologije, filozofije i kulture mode, biologije i hemijske tekstilne tehnologije. Fokus je na predškolskom vaspitanju i podsticanju studenata dizajna na interdisciplinarni pristup tekstilu.
Sažetak
The multidisciplinary project "All colors of Montenegro - dyeing wool with vegetable dyes" combines science, tradition and art and contributes to the preservation and revival of the cultural heritage of wool as well as the use of wool in other areas such as agriculture, construction, etc. By taking up the ideas of the project, an important contribution can be made to reducing pollution and realising the principles of the circular economy, because wool that remains in nature is pollution. The use of indigenous waste or easily renewable plant sources is also insisted upon in the dyeing processes. For dyeing different plants can be used: madder root, black ash leaves, onion skins, walnut leaves. As part of the project, workshops in textile dyeing and traditional felting techniq are organised for students from various disciplines and interdisciplinary lectures are held in the fields of ethnology, philosophy and culture of fashion, biology and chemical textile technology. The focus is on pre-school education and encouraging design students to take an interdisciplinary approach to textiles.
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