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Gobleni i njihova primena u modernoj odeći
Gobelin tapestries and their application in modern clothes
aGoce Delcev University, Art Academy, Stip, Nort Macedonia bGoce Delcev University, Faculty of Technology, Stip, North Macedonia
e-adresa: vanga.dimitrijeva@ugd.edu.mk, sanja.risteski@ugd.edu.mk, silvana.zezova@ugd.edu.mk, saska.golemova@ugd.edu.mk, sonja.jordeva@ugd.edu.mk
Sažetak
Goblen, kao oblik ručno rađene umetnosti, važan je deo kulturno-tekstilne baštine, posebno na Balkanu i u širem evropskom regionu. Ovaj rad naglašava transformaciju goblena kao ukrasnog elementa u kuc'i i njihovoj integraciji u savremeni modni dizajn. Istraživanje počinje istorijskim korenima goblena, njegovih simboličnih i estetskih vrednosti, kao i tehnike koje se koriste u njihovoj proizvodnji. Poseban naglasak je na njegovoj ulozi u makedonskoj tradiciji, gde Goblen ne samo da ima samo dekorativnu funkciju, već je i simboliziralo ženske veštine, strpljenje i kreativnost i većinu tekstilnih umetnosti žena, ali izuzeci nisu ni muškarci u proizvodnji odec'e, ova tekstilna umetnost bila je ukorenjena hiljadu godina u Makedoniji. Žene su prvo koristile vunene niti dobijene od robe koju su čuvale, zatim svilene niti koje su takođe same proizvodile, a zatim su se uvozile i koristile mnogo sofisticiranije igle i niti. Svrha rada je da se pokaže kako se tradicionalni gobleni mogu tumačiti i prilagoditi kontekstu moderne modne scene. Analiziranje specifičnih primera domaćih i međunarodnih modnih dizajnera pomoću goblenskih motiva, tekstura i tehnika u njihovim kolekcijama otkriva kreativni potencijal za staro sa novim. Rad takođe istražuje na koji način modernu odeću može sačuvati autentičnost preko goblena, dizajna uvođenja inovacija kroz nove materijale, tehnologije i pristupe. Istraživanje se zasniva na analizi vizuelnih materijala. Rezultati pokazuju sve veće interesovanje za jedinstvene, ručno rađene i kulturno autentične komade, posebno u kontekstu održive mode. Goblen ne bi trebalo da se vidi samo kao stvar prošlosti umetničkog nasleđa, već kao izvor inspiracije i inovacija dizajnera. Kroz njegovo prilagođavanje moguće je sačuvati kulturni identitet, dok razvijate modernu ekspresiju koja štiti tradiciju.
Abstract
Gobelin tapestry, as a form of handmade art, represents a significant part of the cultural and textile heritage, especially in the Balkans and the wider European region. This paper explores the transformation of gobelin tapestries as a decorative element in the home and their integration into contemporary fashion design. The research begins with the historical roots of gobelin tapestry its symbolic and aesthetic values, as well as the techniques used in their production. Special emphasis is placed on its role in the Macedonian tradition, where gobelin tapestry not only had a decorative function, but also symbolized female skill, patience and creativity, and mostly women's textile art, but men were no exception in the production of clothing, this textile art was rooted thousands of years ago in Macedonia, women first using woolen threads obtained from the goods they kept, then silk threads that they also produced themselves, and then imported and much more sophisticated needles and threads were used. The aim of the paper is to show how a traditional gobelin tapestry can be reinterpreted and adapted in the context of the modern fashion scene. Through the analysis of specific examples from domestic and international fashion designers who use tapestry motifs, textures and techniques in their collections, the creative potential of the old with the new is revealed. The paper also explores in what ways contemporary clothing can preserve the authenticity of gobelin tapestry making by introducing innovations through new materials, technologies and approaches. The research is based on the analysis of visual materials. The results show a growing interest in unique, handmade and culturally authentic pieces, especially in the context of sustainable fashion. Gobelin tapestry should not be seen only as a thing of the past artistic heritage, but as a source of inspiration and innovation in design. Through its adaptation, it is possible to preserve cultural identity while developing a contemporary expression that values tradition.
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