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Standardi održivosti u modnoj industriji
Standards of sustainability in the fashion industry
Academy of Technical and Art Applied Studies Belgrade, Department of Textile School for Design, Technology and Menagement, Belgrade
e-adresa: adelamed@yahoo.com
Sažetak
Modna industrija predstavlja važan segment svetske ekonomije i zapošljava preko 75 miliona ljudi širom sveta. Sektor modne industrije je zabeležio spektakularan rast tokom proteklih decenija, i dok je modni sektor u procvatu, sve veća pažnja se skreće na impresivan spektar negativnih uticaja na životnu sredinu, za koje je industrija odgovorna. Modna industrija čini 10% ukupnih emisija ugljenika, isušuje izvore vode i zagađuje reke i potoke. Preko 85% tekstila svake godine završi na deponijama (UNECE, 2018), a pranje odeće šalje značajnu količinu mikroplastike u okeane. S obzirom na veliki uticaj modne industrije na životnu sredinu, lideri modne industrije imaju veliku odgovornost u razvoju svojih poslovnih modela sa integrisanim ciljevima održivog razvoja, kako bi smanjili emisiju gasova staklene bašte i zagađenje vode. Transparentna i održiva modna industrija je zajednička odgovornost proizvođača i kreatora politike i može se postići samo kroz saradnju svih zainteresovanih strana, uključujući i potrošače. Harmonizovani standardi i kriterijumi su kritični za zajedničko razumevanje održivosti na globalnom nivou i za povećanje poverenja u potraživanja. U vezi sa tim, globalna Kering Grupa upravlja razvojem renomiranih modnih kuća koje se bave proizvodnjom odeće, kožne galanterije i nakita: Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, Aleksender McKueen, Brioni, Boucheron, Pomellato, DoDo, Keelin i sl. tako da promoviše kreativnost na održiv i odgovoran način sa ekonomskim učinkom. Kering grupa preko svojih veoma strogih standarda brine o uticaju modne industrije na planetu, na klimatske promene i prirodne resurse i promoviše pionirske ideje usmerene na očuvanje prirodnih resursa i osnaživanje budućih generacija. U ovom radu prikazani su zahtevi Kering standarda za 2025. godinu za sirovinsku bazu za modnu industriju, koje dobavljači moraju da ispune kako bi bili usaglašeni, kao i dodatne "najbolje prakse" na kojima bi dobavljači trebalo da rade u narednim godinama a sve u vezi sa Keringovim principima održivosti.
Abstract
The fashion industry represents an important segment of the world economy and employs over 75 million people worldwide. The fashion industry sector has seen spectacular growth over the past decades, and while the fashion sector is booming, increasing attention is being drawn to the impressive range of negative environmental impacts the industry is responsible for. The fashion industry accounts for 10% of total carbon emissions, drains water sources and pollutes rivers and streams. Over 85% of textiles end up in landfills each year (UNECE, 2018), and washing clothes sends a significant amount of microplastics into the oceans. Given the high impact of the fashion industry on the environment, fashion industry leaders have a great responsibility in developing their business models with integrated sustainable development goals, in order to reduce greenhouse gas emissions and water pollution. A transparent and sustainable fashion industry is a joint responsibility of producers and policy makers and can only be achieved through the cooperation of all stakeholders, including consumers. Harmonized standards and criteria are critical for a common understanding of sustainability globally and for increasing confidence in claims. In this regard, the global Kering Group manages the development of renowned fashion houses that produce clothing, leather goods and jewelry: Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, Brioni, Boucheron, Pomellato, DoDo, Keelin, etc. promoting creativity in a sustainable and responsible way, coupled with economic performance. Through its very strict standards, the Kering Group shows its care about the impact of the fashion industry on the planet, on climate change and natural resources, and promotes pioneering ideas aimed at preserving natural resources and empowering future generations. This paper outlines the Kering Standard 2025 requirements for the raw material base for the fashion industry, which suppliers must meet in order to be compliant, as well as additional "best practices" that suppliers should work on in the coming years, all relating to Kering's sustainability principles.
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